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INNOVATIONS TO SHARE
These innovative ideas have been sent in
to us by other users and are in no way endorsed by ZBox Australia.
All modifications are done at owners risk.
Get onto this Zbox Sidecar...
Offset gearing for fat rear wheel on chopper...
Hi There, just wanted to send a few pics of my ZBOX designed chopper bike. The main difference i have been able to do to my bike that i haven't seen others do with a chopper (large wide back tyre) is offset the chain so that the ZBOX motor is still sitting central on the frame, not uncomfortably offset the motor. I ordered a couple of zbox 10 teeth sprockets and an extra zbox chain and made a new sprocket. The bike goes fantastic and is sooooo comfortable to ride over long distances. Another bonus is that i can change sprocket sizes quite easily to increase speed or grunt.
Cheers Adam from Tasmania.
(p.s I'm planning to ride it from Devonport (Northern Tasmania) to Hobart when the motors properly run in, about 300km, i'll keep you posted).
Mounting engine to smaller frames...
Thank you for your quick reply and service.
I received the kit on Friday 1/5/09 and spent the weekend fitting the kit to
the dreaded Kmart Cyclops Maximal.
As this was the only bike I had, I used my grinder and welder and custom
fitted the motor into the frame.
The motor is now fitting lower into the frame and allowing space for the
carby and filter.
This custom fit may inspire other buyers, to use what they have or buy those
new cheap bikes from Kmart or Big W with the big tube frames.
I de-stickered the frame, added a spring seat and tool bag, side mirror,
speedo and bike carrier and it looks and feels
like a vintage motor-bike to ride.
I also found that if you weld the chain adjuster to the frame (the small
outside plate), it will not slowly slip around into the spokes as
Thank you once again.
ps I added some photo`s for you to use if you like.
A good solid mounting idea
First of all thanks for prompt delivery, I have put the Z50 on my bike, it goes great! I had a little trouble fitting the motor because of an oversized bottom tube, 45mm. I thought you might be interested to see how I got around the problem. I bought a $2.50 45mm exhaust clamp from repco autoparts and cut a piece of steel flat to suit as an adapter plate. The only problem I can see is it raised the motor fairly high in the frame, but there was just enough clearance. Only just cleared the top bar with the throttle cable. Overall it is a neat solution with heaps of strength.
ZBOX engine mounted to a soft-tail
I HAVE ALWAYS CONSIDERED IT IMPOSSIBLE TO MOUNT A ZBOX ENGINE TO BIKE WITH REAR SUSPENSION. LACHLAN CRUICKSHANK FROM THE GOLD COAST HAS THROWN THAT THEORY OUT THE WINDOW WITH THIS INNOVATIVE DESIGN. WARREN - ZBOX AUSTRALIA
I thought I might email 4 of my best pictures of the bike and your motor attached to it, as you could say it is slightly different to most. It has taken me sometime to get everything right, but as you can see it has turned out pretty well. Their are a few adjustments that I need to make, but I will do that later. For now it is my mode of transport, so I have to keep it running. The most difficult part I found with this project was lining the chain up and trying to avoid the tyre and back fork bike frames. I used this bike frame as I wanted to have suspension. This proved to be a bit of a pain, but I got their in the end. The only modifications that I basically needed to do to this motor to get it working on the bike was to weld a pipe to the existing inlet pipe, that made the carby level as the motor was tipped back. This was so that the chain would run evenly without hitting the cover plate and its bolts. Aside from that I just got a longer throttle cable, from my local bike shop, and modified it to fit. That was basically it, aside from the mounting of the motor. This was very time consuming and took percentage of my time to be able to get it right, to weld in place. Basically I just replicated the V frame of a normal bike, and what you see is the finished product.
Hope you enjoy the pictures. Feel free to post them on your website, if you like, im quite happy to share my experience and knowledge to inspire and help others that use these wonderful motors.
Regards Lachlan Cruickshank.
69cc LIDSDALE FLYER
Thought you might like a look at this one, its one of
your 69cc engines with a few mods. The bike was an old Malvern Star
mountain bike to which I added front suspension forks, some frame mods
to fit hydraulic disc brakes on the rear and a decent set of alloy
double wall rims running slicks. The head has had 3mm removed raising
compression ratio to about 10.5 : 1. Enlarged jetting in the
carburetor as well as a custom inlet manifold - so it can run on
methanol ! (Shell Racing A & Castrol M). The gearing setup has a
freewheel chain gear with the original kit gear (slightly thinned to
suit 1/8" chain) attached, an eccentric tensioner for both primary
drive chains and final drive is the 8 speed on the rear wheel (overall
final drive ratio is 6.6:1@ 6000rpm, the maths disregarding wind, weight, friction etc says 109km/hr). Primary chains are standard pintel (half
link) BMX type 1/8" x 1/2" , the final drive chain is a standard 8 speed
bicycle chain. The last mod was an expansion chamber to give it just a
little extra boost . Does it go? - well so far great - no broken chains
or bones. Does it
stop? - fitted out with Hayes 6" hydraulic disc brakes - stopping is not
an issue, but you can kiss fuel economy goodbye, as it drinks like a
fish and gets roughly 20klm's to the tank. I'll be reverting back to a
more standard flat slide carby and regular two stroke fuel in the near
future which will mean a little less power but still plenty of grunt and
a lot better fuel economy.
Just got back and I've had a quick peek at the page
and it looks good, hope it grows some more . I've attached a couple of
pic's of the components for the counter shaft and freewheel chaingear.
All of these pieces I machined up in my workshop. There a couple of
differences between what is in the pictures and what actually went on
the final installation but the concept is the same. The main ones are
the original 20T sprocket which was made from the outer of a DICTA
freewheel was replaced with a 21T all home manufactured sprocket to
allow for correct chain adjustment. The crank assembly pictured was ok
until I upped the compression, then kicking it over - the threaded part
stripped (forgot to loctite it !!) so it went into the scrap bin, the
freewheel portion of the assembly is made from a DICTA 14T BMX freewheel
sprocket with the teeth machined off. The thread in these is 30mm x 1.0
pitch and as the crank is alloy it definitely needs to be loctited in
position. The outer ring in the picture is a lot larger than the final
one, this is a press fit on the freewheel component sandwiching the
chain wheel (suitably bored out to a neat fit on the freewheel). The
chain wheel is then welded to the ring (you could use small through
bolts which could also hold the rear kit gear sprocket) to form the
complete assembly. I did also tap a thread down through the retaining
ring and put a small ball bearing and a grub screw in there to assure
that the crank assembly doesn't slip on the freewheel. Feel free to
edit this if you think it needs it, as it is a bit long winded.