INNOVATIONS TO SHARE

These innovative ideas have been sent in to us by other users and are in no way endorsed by ZBox Australia or our factory in China. All modifications are done at owners risk.

A good solid mounting idea

G'day Warren,
First of all thanks for prompt delivery, I have put the F50 on my bike, it goes great! I had a little trouble fitting the motor because of an oversized bottom tube, 45mm. I thought you might be interested to see how I got around the problem. I bought a $2.50 45mm exhaust clamp from repco autoparts and cut a piece of steel flat to suit as an adapter plate. The only problem I can see is it raised the motor fairly high in the frame, but there was just enough clearance. Only just cleared the top bar with the throttle cable. Overall it is a neat solution with heaps of strength.
Thanks again,
Alasdair

ZBOX engine mounted to a soft-tail

I HAVE ALWAYS CONSIDERED IT IMPOSSIBLE TO MOUNT A ZBOX ENGINE TO BIKE WITH REAR SUSPENSION. LACHLAN CRUICKSHANK FROM THE GOLD COAST HAS THROWN THAT THEORY OUT THE WINDOW WITH THIS INNOVATIVE DESIGN. WARREN - ZBOX AUSTRALIA

Hi Warren,

                 I thought I might email 4 of my best pictures of the bike and your motor attached to it, as you could say it is slightly different to most. It has taken me sometime to get everything right, but as you can see it has turned out pretty well. Their are a few adjustments that I need to make, but I will do that later. For now it is my mode of transport, so I have to keep it running. The most difficult part I found with this project was lining the chain up and trying to avoid the tyre and back fork bike frames. I used this bike frame as I wanted to have suspension. This proved to be a bit of a pain, but I got their in the end. The only modifications that I basically needed to do to this motor to get it working on the bike was to weld a pipe to the existing inlet pipe, that made the carby level as the motor was tipped back. This was so that the chain would run evenly without hitting the cover plate and its bolts. Aside from that I just got a longer throttle cable, from my local bike shop, and modified it to fit. That was basically it, aside from the mounting of the motor. This was very time consuming and took percentage of my time to be able to get it right, to weld in place. Basically I just replicated the V frame of a normal bike, and what you see is the finished product.

 

Hope you enjoy the pictures. Feel free to post them on your website, if you like, im quite happy to share my experience and knowledge to inspire and help others that use these wonderful motors.

 

Regards Lachlan Cruickshank.

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69cc LIDSDALE FLYER

Warren ,
                Thought you might like a look at this one, its one of your 69cc engines with a few mods. The bike was an old Malvern Star mountain bike to which I added front suspension forks, some frame mods to fit hydraulic disc brakes on the rear and a decent set of alloy double wall rims running slicks. The head has had 3mm removed raising compression ratio to about 10.5 : 1. Enlarged jetting in the carburetor as well as a custom inlet manifold - so it can run on methanol ! (Shell Racing A & Castrol M). The gearing setup has a freewheel chain gear with the original kit gear (slightly thinned to suit 1/8" chain) attached, an eccentric tensioner for both primary drive chains and final drive is the 8 speed on the rear wheel (overall final drive ratio is 6.6:1@ 6000rpm, the maths disregarding wind, weight, friction etc says 109km/hr). Primary chains are standard pintel (half link) BMX type 1/8" x 1/2" , the final drive chain is a standard 8 speed bicycle chain. The last mod was an expansion chamber to give it just a little extra boost . Does it go? - well so far great - no broken chains or bones and speeds close to 90kph on a good flat level surface with no wind and a 75kg rider - Bonneville Salt Flats next - who knows. Does it stop?  - fitted out with Hayes 6" hydraulic disc brakes - stopping is not an issue, but you can kiss fuel economy goodbye, as it drinks like a fish and gets roughly 20klm's to the tank. I'll be reverting back to a more standard flat slide carby and regular two stroke fuel in the near future which will mean a little less power but still plenty of grunt and a lot better fuel economy.

Cheers Greg.

Warren,
                   Just got back and I've had a quick peek at the page and it looks good, hope it grows some more . I've attached a couple of pic's of the components for the counter shaft and freewheel chaingear. All of these pieces I machined up in my workshop. There a couple of differences between what is in the pictures and what actually went on the final installation but the concept is the same. The main ones are the original 20T sprocket which was made from the outer of a DICTA freewheel was replaced with a 21T all home manufactured sprocket to allow for correct chain adjustment. The crank assembly pictured was ok until I upped the compression, then kicking it over - the threaded part stripped (forgot to loctite it !!) so it went into the scrap bin, the freewheel portion of the assembly is made from a DICTA 14T BMX freewheel sprocket with the teeth machined off. The thread in these is 30mm x 1.0 pitch and as the crank is alloy it definitely needs to be loctited in position. The outer ring in the picture is a lot larger than the final one, this is a press fit on the freewheel component sandwiching the chain wheel (suitably bored out to a neat fit on the freewheel). The chain wheel is then welded to the ring (you could use small through bolts which could also hold the rear kit gear sprocket) to form the complete assembly. I did also tap a thread down through the retaining ring and put a small ball bearing and a grub screw in there to assure that the crank assembly doesn't slip on the freewheel. Feel free to edit this if you think it needs it, as it is a bit long winded.

Cheers Greg.

Components for Lidsdale Flyer

Crank for Lidsdale Flyer